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Mount St. Helens above lupine meadows. |
- The south side up FS 81 out of Cougar, WA.
- Johnston Ridge at the end of SR 504 (from I-5).
- Windy Ridge from FS25 & 99 out of Randle.
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Mount St. Helens above lupine meadows. |
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The Quinault River from Pony Bridge. |
As you might know, Enchanted Valley is one of the most popular destinations in Olympic National Park, which I’ve always found interesting. Not because it isn’t a worthwhile trip, but why it is. I don’t find it overly scenic quite honestly (except Pony Bridge early on the trek), especially late in season. The valley is wide and vegetation is predominantly grass and brush due to its low elevation, affording early season access (even year-around some years). If you like sub-alpine meadows, you won’t find them here (but you will further up the valley in the summer months). Of course, it also offers the wild Quinault River, which changes its course often and has forced the relocation of the chalet. In early season there are waterfalls cascading down the face of Chimney Rock and the Burke Range high above. They’re nice. They certainly bring character and enjoyment to the valley in early season. However, I never found them very photogenic as a stand-alone subject, even under desirable conditions (cloudy and overcast). In my opinion, they make a great backdrop to accompany other subject matter to help tell the story (example below).
What the area does offer (not solitude), is wildlife! Elk, bears, deer and more are extremely
common in this area and often make themselves available, especially in the
morning and evening. For me, this is the
highlight!
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Black bear, Enchanted Valley. |
The fond memories I have of that first visit was sitting
around camp and being surprised to see not one, not two, but three separate
bears appear across the meadows from me, grazing. I was nervous at first and wondered if I
would have to protect my tent and belongings (my food was hung), but soon
realized they didn’t care about my presence at all. I had never experienced such a thing.
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Roosevelt Elk, Enchanted Valley. |
I stayed a couple of days exploring the area, but mostly just
watched the bears.
Then the day of departure arrived, and it was time to pack up and move out. I was sad to leave, but didn’t realize the biggest moment of my trip awaited me. As I wandered carefree down the trail past Pyrites Creek lost in my thoughts, I came around a bend to find a sight I never would have imagined – a bear a short distance off the trail sleeping on its back with all four feet in the air! I parked myself a safe distance away and watched it sleep and even listened to it snore a couple of times! It eventually opened an eye, saw me, and went back to sleep! After a while it began getting restless and started rolling on either side, whichever was more comfortable. The nap became short and soon it decided it was time to wander up the trail in the direction I had come, seemingly still somewhat groggy. I could not believe what I had just experienced! This experience reaffirmed that I would be back!
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Camp below the waterfalls of Enchanted Valley. |
Of course, that experience never repeated itself.
Fast forward to 2023, when I returned once again in hopes of
seeing my “friends”. How different
things were. As mentioned above, permits
can be much more challenging to come by, and the crowds were ever-present from
beginning to end. There was no
solitude. Fortunately, however, my
“friends” were indeed there, seemingly waiting for me (hey, I can dream!).
So, for logistic planning, here is my take and input on this
trip:
It’s a long trek – 13.3 miles to Enchanted Valley. It’s very pleasant hike to take your mind
off the work, but typical of Olympic National Park trails, much up and
down. Many people consider breaking the
approach up into two days.
After crossing Graves Creek near the trailhead, the trail follows an abandoned road for 2.4 miles, climbing over a ridge and then descending steeply down to the crossing of the East Fork Quinault and Pony Bridge. It’s a high bridge with the river far below as its plunging waters negotiate a deep gorge. This is one of the most spectacular places along this entire trail in my opinion, and you will want to spend some time to enjoy! There is a camp on the far side that I’ve always thought would be fun to enjoy.
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A sleeping black bear near the trail at Pyrites Creek. |
From here the way continues mostly in forest, with many
creek crossings and ups and downs as it traverses terraces and moraine. There are a few trail washouts that must be
negotiated. Nothing too difficult
though. I call them speed bumps in the
trip!
There are camps all along the trail as you head up the
valley – typical of the Olympics. Many
you won’t find on a map.
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Black bear in Enchanted Valley |
Pyrites Creek is reached at about 10 miles and is a nice
place to stay. Others obviously think so
too! It too has high wildlife traffic
and is within a short distance of visiting Enchanted Valley on a leisurely
visit, 3.5 miles further.
After crossing through a gate (yes, a gate), you are close
to the bridge crossing of the river and your arrival to Enchanted Valley. In case you are reading older guide books,
the suspension bridge is long gone, having been washed out. The current bridge requires a bit of
attention as it is simply a log that has been flattened on the top for walking
and has a single upstream handrail, high above the raging Quinault River. You would not want to fall here. After a long day of backpacking and tired
legs, this definitely gets your attention!
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Black bear in Enchanted Valley |
Photography
Tips
Overcast days and even fog are the best days to visit this
area for photography. I find myself
using my 70-200mm lens the most by far here, often coupled with 2x
teleconverter for the wildlife. A
24-70mm lens is worth carrying if you plan to shoot landscapes. You might want to decide if the weight of a
wide-angle is worth carrying on this long of a trek. I would probably leave it at home if you are
not toting an RF lens.
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Enchanted Valley Chalet, circa ~2002. |
The season depends on your itinerary. Spring is great for wildlife as the snow up higher keeps them in the valley. Once the snow melts above, the animals see it as an invite to seek higher ground. It’s also the best time to enjoy the waterfalls, which all but dry up later in the year. If you wish to continue, the Anderson Pass area and LaCrosse Basin are fabulous places to visit beginning in mid-July most years.
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Black bear in Enchanted Valley |
I hope you have found some of this information helpful in planning your own trip. The adventure can be as long as you want it to be! I would definitely budget no less than 3-4 days for it - more if you intend to extend the trip further towards LaCrosse Basin or Anderson Pass.
If you wish to seem more images from this wonderful park, please visit my Olympic Gallery.
As always, thanks for looking. Hope to see you on the trail!
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Morning alpenglow on Mount Olympus. |
Instead, one must venture on foot, approximately 18 miles each way to this viewpoint (36 miles round trip) to the moraine of the Blue Glacier, the prominent glacier in the forefront of these images, for this view. It's an amazing view in person that images do not do just, in my opinion.
However, the trek into this mountain is just as much about the journey as it is the final destination. It begins at 578' in a temperate rain forest and climbs through many ecosystems in its climb to the base of the mountain at ~5,000'. Each has something special to offer.
As many times as I've done this trip, my itinerary was much different this time. You see, I've climbed Mt. Olympus many times, always having set a high camp on Snow Dome or Panic Peak. In fact, I've only stayed at Glacier Meadows, the popular base camp for the climb, once. It was on my last climb and during our decent when our sole focus was on the long trek out. There was no interest in climbing 800' back up to the moraine with such a long day ahead! As such, I never had the opportunity to photograph this view from the moraine.
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Mount Olympus illuminated by the moon. |
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Dave Skinner on Blue Glacier Moraine. |
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Saguaro cacti in evening, Saguaro National Park. |
And it is no surprise - such a majestic cactus is an attention drawer and the epitome of the southwest landscape (maybe because of those cartoons). The reality is that they are NOT very common at all. In fact, their only existence is within the Sonoran Desert, mostly in Mexico and only a small part of southern Arizona. California lays official claim to approximately 30 of this species.
So, where to go to see and photograph these beautiful tree-like icons? Saguaro National Park near Tucson offers the perfect landing spot! This national park was designed in 1933 to help protect the species and its habitat. It's a unique national park in that it is so close to the city of Tucson and divided into sections, with the city itself being the divider!
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Saguaro cacti in evening, Saguaro National Park. |
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Saguaros in evening, Saguaro National Park. |
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Cholla Teddy Bear cacti in Saguaro National Park. |
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Saguaro Cacti at sunset from Gates Pass. |
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Mount Rainier above Spray Park at sunset. |
Even the hike to the park can done in multiple ways. While for most the Spray Park Trail is the most obvious choice (and shortest). Others find the route over Knapsack Pass more challenging and extremely scenic. This route takes off from an unsigned trail near the ranger cabin, climbs up to the pass below Mother Mountain (a fun side trip), descends into Seattle Park, ascends into the upper reaches of Spray Park, then descends through the park, past Spray Falls and back to the parking lot for a one-way loop.
Want a more challenging option? Entertain a much longer loop by hiking to Ipsut Pass, descending down to the Wonderland Trail along the Carbon River, follow it upriver to Carbon River Camp and a junction, turning right up Cataract Creek and follow it up below Echo Cliffs to Seattle Park, up to Spray Park and descend back to the parking lot. This trip is a long day with much elevation change and is typically done for the physical challenge it presents. It can also be done in reverse.
This image was taken during one of the many sunsets I have shot from Spray Park. There is no camping in the park, so one must either get a permit to camp at Eagle's Roost or do what I do - hike out with headlamp. I strongly recommend trekking poles and extra batteries if considering this option. There are many opportunities to turn an ankle on the way out if not careful. Spoken from experience!
I'm happy to share that this image recently appeared in a well-known U.S. magazine. So I guess the efforts to go get it are all made worthwhile!
To view this and more images from Mount Rainier National Park, please feel free to visit my Mount Rainier Gallery.
As always, thanks for looking. I hope to see you on the trail!
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Bighorn Canyon NRA |
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Bighorn Canyon NRA |
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Bighorn Canyon NRA |
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Bighorn Canyon NRA |
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Wild mustang in Pryor Mountain Wild Horse Range |
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Bighorn Canyon NRA |
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Bighorn Canyon NRA |
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Quilcene River and moss. |
The Quilcene is most commonly hiked by those ascending to the high country of Marmot Pass or even Buckhorn Mountain at 6,983' - two outstanding destinations! As such, it is easy to put the blinders on in the lower forest as one focuses on the task at hand.
However, in early season the lower forest along this beautiful stream IS my focus! Super-green moss and waterfalls a plenty are enough to captivate my interests. Early season can also make it a vey lonely trail as deep snow blankets the high country.
This image has stood the test of time and has recently been licensed for Worldwide usage in a magazine, as well as supporting digital use.
You can see this image and more from the area in my Olympic Gallery.
As always, thanks for looking! Hope to see you on the trail!
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Mount Olympus from High Divide, Olympic National Park |
A trip into this area offers so much beauty for the adventurer willing to put the distance in. Summer offers meadows of flowers, while fall offers vibrant fall foliage of reds, oranges and yellows. You really can't go wrong on when you visit. Oh, and the wildlife! Your chances of seeing bears, deer, marmots and more are quite high.
Both camping areas mentioned above a beautiful and prime destinations. If planning your trip for photography on the ridge, I would recommend giving the nod to Heart Lake or a campsite on the ridge (dry). Seven Lakes Basin still works, it's just that your hike back to camp in the dark (assuming you are staying for sunset) will be a bit longer. Still, Seven Lakes Basin is beautiful...
For the image above, Seven Lakes Basin was my place of stay as a last-minute permit became available. The opportunity to visit this high ridge to both view and photograph Mount Olympus was exciting! And I was not disappointed.
I'm happy to share that this image was recently licensed for worldwide use for print cards.
To see more images from this fantastic area, feel free to visit my Olympic Gallery.
Hope to see you on the trail in 2023!
King Tides at Cape Disappointment.
"King Tides" is a non-scientific term used to describe higher than average high tides. In Washington, these typically happen during the winter months of November, December and January for a three-day period. They are the result of the gravitational forces of the sun and moon basically playing "Tug-of-war". They typically occur during a full moon and can be further escalated by storms.
In my state of Washington, these typically occur in the winter months of November, December and January, and for a period of three days each.
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King Tides at Cape Disappointment. |
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King Tides at Cape Disappointment. |
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Bryce Canyon National Park in winter. |
Having visited this park in spring and summer, I had always
wanted to witness it under a blanket of snow in winter. One early February I got my chance. Closely watching the weather forecast, I saw
and incoming storm expected for the area.
My plan was to sleep in my vehicle. However, at the last minute I discovered I
would be bringing guests – my kids, early and middle elementary school
ages! Our only choice was to tent it –
their first winter snow camping experience!
We shared the entire Bryce campground with a single motor home.
Temperatures during the day with in the 20’s and low 30’s. Nighttime dipped into the low teens.
Night came early of course, so we found ourselves bundled in
our sleeping bags playing cards with the illumination from our headlamps. The kids had a blast! I will always cherish the special memories
from this trip.
The next morning, I awoke to a wall of spin drift (blown
snow) completely block the outside of our tent door. It was 13 degrees outside as I hiked to the rim
of the canyon for sunrise. It was beautiful!
This image appears for the month of January in my 2023Western Landscapes wall calendar.
You may view more images from this area in my SouthwestGallery.
I hope you enjoy!
You can purchase the calendar for $15.99 ea. at Western Landscapes 2023 Wall Calendar (lulu.com). What's better is that you can even preview before ordering by clicking on the preview button!
Happy Holidays and hope to see you on the trail!