Visiting An Old Friend - Mt. Olympus

Morning alpenglow on Mount Olympus.

Mount Olympus is one of the more magical places to visit and experience in my home state of Washington. It's special in its uniqueness of low sprawling glaciers, remoteness, and isolation.  It's not a mountain you can drive to. In fact, I know of only two places you can see it from pavement - Hurricane Ridge in the far distance, and SR 110 near La Push.

Instead, one must venture on foot, approximately 18 miles each way to this viewpoint (36 miles round trip) to the moraine of the Blue Glacier, the prominent glacier in the forefront of these images, for this view.  It's an amazing view in person that images do not do just, in my opinion.

However, the trek into this mountain is just as much about the journey as it is the final destination.  It begins at 578' in a temperate rain forest and climbs through many ecosystems in its climb to the base of the mountain at ~5,000'.  Each has something special to offer.

As many times as I've done this trip, my itinerary was much different this time.  You see, I've climbed Mt. Olympus many times, always having set a high camp on Snow Dome or Panic Peak.  In fact, I've only stayed at Glacier Meadows, the popular base camp for the climb, once.  It was on my last climb and during our decent when our sole focus was on the long trek out.  There was no interest in climbing 800' back up to the moraine with such a long day ahead!  As such, I never had the opportunity to photograph this view from the moraine.

Mount Olympus illuminated by the moon.

This was about to change.

After the long backpack into Glacier Meadows, I hiked up to the Moraine to scout it for the following morning as I would be traveling in the dark for sunrise.  It was mostly as I remembered it.  I spent a good part of the afternoon soaking it all in.  Incredible.  

As a bonus, I was surprised to see an old friend ascending up the trail - Dave Skinner!  Dave is a local icon for all his dedication to the Olympic Mountains over the years.  He lives outside of Port Angeles, off the grid, and hitchhikes to trailheads to perform volunteer trail maintenance.  He was on his annual trip up to the research hut on Snow Dome for the next week, which is where I first met him many years ago.  We visited for over an hour, catching up on just about everything.  This pleasant surprise made my day.

Dave Skinner on Blue Glacier Moraine.

I set my alarm for 3 am the next morning and was on the trail by 3:20. I arrived atop the moraine at 4:20 for a 5:30 sunrise.  Lots of time to fine-tune composition ideas and also catch the moon illuminating Mt. Olympus!

Sunrise light was delayed at first, presumably due to clouds or smoke to the east.  But it gained traction in short time and did not disappoint.  I played with several compositions, including features atop the moraine as forefront material.  But in the end, the Blue Glacier with all its immensity was my favorite.

The end of the shooting hour came much too quickly, as it often does, and I found myself having to say goodbye to this beautiful place.  It was hard to let go.

I descended to camp and packed up for the long trek out.  The memories still dancing in my head would last the duration of my exit.  And so did the smile on my fact, I am sure!

I spent my next evening at the Olympic Guard Station and reached civilization the following day.  It was the end to yet another amazing trip to Mt. Olympus. This time, amazing for much different reasons.

As always, thanks for looking.  Hope to see you on the trail!

Where the Saguaros Live

Saguaro cacti in evening, Saguaro National Park.

 As a kid, I remember watching cartoons such as Bugs Bunny and Road Runner and seeing the "coat hanger" type cactus depicted throughout their scenes.  Were there any other types?  Not in Toonville!

And it is no surprise - such a majestic cactus is an attention drawer and the epitome of the southwest landscape (maybe because of those cartoons).  The reality is that they are NOT very common at all.  In fact, their only existence is within the Sonoran Desert, mostly in Mexico and only a small part of southern Arizona.  California lays official claim to approximately 30 of this species.

So, where to go to see and photograph these beautiful tree-like icons?  Saguaro National Park near Tucson offers the perfect landing spot!  This national park was designed in 1933 to help protect the species and its habitat.  It's a unique national park in that it is so close to the city of Tucson and divided into sections, with the city itself being the divider!

Saguaro cacti in evening, Saguaro National Park.

Both sections of the park and have something to offer and both should be visited as they are only about 30 minutes apart driving.

Saguaro National Park East, Rincon Mountain District is closest to Tucson.  It sports the paved 8-mile Cactus Forest Loop drive with many pullouts for further exploration on foot.  This road provides many different viewing opportunities along the way, with each section seeming to offer something new.  Whether it is up-close views of cacti, diverse fauna scenes or panorama views of the Rincon Mountains and distant Tucson, the scenes are ever changing.

I have found this district of the park excellent for capturing more intimate shots of the fauna and sporting much diversity of the many species of cacti together.  Prickly Pears and Chollas abound amongst the Saguaros!

I've also found it to be the much the less crowded of the two districts.

Saguaros in evening, Saguaro National
Park.

If you are hoping to catch sight of a snake or two from a safe distance, drive the Cactus Forest Loop in late afternoon.  In my experience, this is the best time to discover snakes basking on the warm black top or simply slowly crossing the road in their unhurried manner.  If you see a line in the road ahead, slow down - it's likely a snake!

Saguaro National Park West, Tucson Mountain District is much different, yet with many similarities.  While I consider Saguaro East to offer more accessible up-close compositions of fauna, Saguaro West offers forests of Saguaros against the impressive landscape of the Tucson Mountains.  The views from the Visitor Center itself are impressive.  Add to it the Bajada Loop Drive, a popular 6-mile graded dirt road thru fantastic groves of Saguaro cacti, and you will understand its popularity.  It also offers some fantastic hiking opportunities, with arguably the best hike being King Canyon Trail to Wasson Peak (made into a loop by descending the Hugh Norris Trail back to the Esperanza Trail cut-off back to King Canyon).

Gates Pass Scenic Overlook is a nearby attraction in Tucson Mountain Park that offers amazing sunset views.  No need to drive out of your way.  If coming from Tucson, you will drive over this pass on your way to Saguaro West!  Watch for a turnout sign to your right along Gates Pass Road.  Also, get there early for a parking spot!

Cholla Teddy Bear cacti in Saguaro
National Park.

Other nearby attractions are Old Tucson Studios, where MANY movies have been filmed over the years - some that might surprise you.  And the excellent Arizona - Sonora Desert Museum.

Sabino Canyon Recreation Area

While very popular (read crowded!) for its access to water as well as scenery, Sabino Canyon offers excellent hiking options and a tram that runs year-round up the 3.8 mile paved road.  This road attracts all audiences, from hikers to runners to cyclists.

For excellent hiking options, look at the Telephone Line Trail, which runs high above the canyon for excellent views, or the trail up Bear Canyon to Seven Falls.  Both are accessible from the Sabino Canyon parking lot (or overflow lot if arriving mid-morning or later on a popular day).

If visiting Sabino Canyon, I recommend purchasing your parking pass online beforehand as internet access is sketchy at the parking lot.  My first visit I tried three different times to purchase the pass from my phone, each time failing to receive a confirmation.  The screen just hung.  Later that day I returned to my hotel to see I had received (3) payment confirmation emails!

Photography Advise

I like to visit Saguaro East in the mornings for scenes like the backlit Teddy Bear Cholla on this page and similar scenes of other cacti just off the loop road.  It's easy to find several different species grouped together for interesting compositions.  I've found evening visits to be more challenging due to the stronger lighting and its angle.

Late afternoons and evenings are great for visiting Saguaro West.  Drive the Bajada Loop mid-afternoon to look for compositions to return to later.  Don't forget to check out the Valley View Trail.

The King Canyon Trail offers excellent opportunities as well.  The well-signed trailhead is just across from the museum, which offers lots of overflow parking if the trailhead parking if full (and almost as convenient).

Don't forget to snoop around the visitor center as well for some nice late afternoon compositions.  It offers a nature trail as well as two separate balcony platforms for your viewing pleasure.

Saguaro Cacti at sunset from Gates Pass.

Gates Pass Scenic Overlook is excellent for sunset if you have an interesting sky, or for views nonetheless!  Get there a little before and you can pull in compositions of Saguaros in excellent light on the surrounding hills with a zoom lens, such as the image to the left.  There is also an interesting pullout just below the pass on the other side, though not offering sunset view that Gates Pass offers.

One of the beautiful things about this area is that it is available year-round, though I would avoid the hot months!  I've done many hikes and photography in February.  April brings the wildflowers, which last into May.  May offers cactus blooms, with the Saguaro typically reaching peak in mid to late May.

Lenses

My go-to lenses were my 24-70mm and 70-200mm.  Both were used extensively.  I'm not saying you couldn't find use for a wide-angle lens, but mine never left my bag.  Now if attempting night sky photography, that would be a different story (understand Saguaro East is only open from sunrise to sunset - don't get trapped on the wrong side of the gate!).

Guides

Obviously, there is a lot available on the internet.  Besides that, publications I found very useful were:

• Photographing the Southwest, Volume 2, by Laurent Martres.
• Tucson - 38 Spectacular Hikes Around Old Pueblo, by Rob Rachowiecki.
• 100 Classic Hikes - Arizona, by Scott Warren.

I hope to have these images and more included on my website www.mountainscenes.com soon.  You can also visit my Facebook page for current news and events.

I hope some of this information helps you in planning your visit!  As always, thanks for looking.  Hope to see you on the trail!

Spray Park, Mount Rainier

Mount Rainier above Spray Park at sunset.

Spray Park is probably my favorite park at Mount Rainier.  There is so much to do and see.  For many people, the meadows and tarns down low are the main attraction. Others like to follow the trail to its high point for massive views far and wide, while looking down on the beautiful meadows of Seattle Park below.  Some wish to explore even higher and scramble up Echo Peak or Observation Rock (hey, why not both!).

Even the hike to the park can done in multiple ways.  While for most the Spray Park Trail is the most obvious choice (and shortest).  Others find the route over Knapsack Pass more challenging and extremely scenic.  This route takes off from an unsigned trail near the ranger cabin, climbs up to the pass below Mother Mountain (a fun side trip), descends into Seattle Park, ascends into the upper reaches of Spray Park, then descends through the park, past Spray Falls and back to the parking lot for a one-way loop.

Want a more challenging option?  Entertain a much longer loop by hiking to Ipsut Pass, descending down to the Wonderland Trail along the Carbon River, follow it upriver to Carbon River Camp and a junction, turning right up Cataract Creek and follow it up below Echo Cliffs to Seattle Park, up to Spray Park and descend back to the parking lot.  This trip is a long day with much elevation change and is typically done for the physical challenge it presents.  It can also be done in reverse.

This image was taken during one of the many sunsets I have shot from Spray Park.  There is no camping in the park, so one must either get a permit to camp at Eagle's Roost or do what I do - hike out with headlamp.  I strongly recommend trekking poles and extra batteries if considering this option.  There are many opportunities to turn an ankle on the way out if not careful.  Spoken from experience!

I'm happy to share that this image recently appeared in a well-known U.S. magazine.  So I guess the efforts to go get it are all made worthwhile!

To view this and more images from Mount Rainier National Park, please feel free to visit my Mount Rainier Gallery.

As always, thanks for looking.  I hope to see you on the trail!