A Week in Joshua Tree National Park

Atlas at Sunset, Joshua Tree National Park

Our first visit to Joshua Tree National Park did not disappoint!  The only thing I felt sure of for my visit in late April was that there would be crowds.  But actually, they weren't bad at all.

We flew into Ontario International Airport by mistake as we were not aware of the airport in Palm Springs until it was too late.  Looking into it, the drive to Joshua Tree was only 30 minutes different under normal conditions.  I say normal because Coachella was going on the weekend we arrived!  We missed the crowds with our oversight!  Also, Ontario is a much quieter airport and easy to navigate.

We arrived at our campsite at Jumbo Rocks mid-day and got settled in.  Our plan was to stay here for the four nights we could reserve, then move to Hidden Valley for our last two (we never did).

Coyote in Jumbo Rocks Campground (phone pic).

We almost immediately discovered that we had a full-time resident in the campground - a coyote.  It wandered up and down the main road of the campground throughout the middle of the day hoping to scavenge some food.  Unfortunately, too often it was successful.  At night, the rest of the pack could be heard very close nearby.  We even had them sniffing outside our tent the first night.

The area was amazing.  The granite rock was unlike anything I had seen before.  Everything seemed round and polished (it was actually quite rough in texture).

Evening light in Jumbo Rocks.

The Jumbo Rocks area was easily my favorite area of the park with all the unique granite rock formations and exploring opportunities right from the campground.  The Discovery Trail, reached from the Skull Rock Trail out of the campground, was one of my favorites.  I walked it nearly every morning and evening for photography opportunities.  Split Rock was also easily accessed from here.  Skull Rock was interesting for certain, but it didn't hold a candle to what was across the highway from it, in my opinion.  It was also typically very crowded unless you visited early morning.

Early light in Jumbo Rocks

Of course, some might argue that it wasn't even necessary to leave the campground for photography, and they would be correct.  Atlas, the first image above, was taken from the amphitheater just above our campsite - about a 30 second walk!  I could almost always find fresh coyote scat in this area!

There were more opportunities just wandering the roads within the campground.  My favorite time to do so was in the morning with fresh cup of coffee in hand.  It was typically quite peaceful.

Fortynine Palms Oasis

Fortynine Palms Oasis was a much different destination than anything we had seen in the park.  It is a hot, dry trail.  There are signs warning you not to begin your hike after 10:00 am due to extreme heat.  There are even more signs up the trail telling you the high percentage of rescues that take place on this trail annually, and that park personnel will NOT respond to emergency calls for rescue during a mid-day hour window (I believe it was 11:00 am to 3:00 pm).

The trail ascends a dry slope to the top of a ridge with excellent views in all directions before descending down into a valley Fortynine Palms Oasis.  This oasis is amazing to witness as these trees are literally in the middle of a desert with nothing around, only surviving on a very small year-round spring.

It was a hot day, but the hike presented me with a completely different challenge that would affect the rest of my trip.  I got tired of my top-heavy tripod causing the compression straps of my daypack to loosen, resulting in my tripod bouncing around with every step I took.  I finally pulled the ballhead off the tripod as a hopeful solution.  But in the process, I accidentally pulled the mating stud and washer off the tripod and dropped it somewhere, never to be seen again. I could no longer mount my camera body to my tripod.

I got up early the next morning and repeated the hike in search of the lost parts, but to no avail.  I had to spend the rest of our trip hand-holding my camera to the top of the tripod and shooting at a higher ISO to achieve faster shutter speeds in hopes of achieving sharp pictures.  It was an interesting challenge!

Cholla Cactus, also known as Jumping Chollas and Teddy
Bear cactus!

Cholla Cactus Garden was an amazing area.  I've encountered these beautiful cacti in Saguaro National Park in AZ previously, but not in these numbers and intensity!

The official garden entrance and path were closed at the time due to renovation.  But there is ample parking along the side of the highway that allows you to wander to your heart's content.

Unfortunately, the problem I encountered the entire trip surfaced again.  What few clouds there were in the sky disappeared before sunset.  Much like photographing sunset silhouettes of the Joshua trees in Hidden Valley, you need a colorful sky to make them interesting.  We had bluebird skies during our entire visit.

Arch Rock.

Nearby the Cholla Cactus Garden is a short hike that takes you to Arch Rock and Heart Rock.  Remember the saying, "Don't bring a knife to a gunfight"?  I tried the opposite. I mistakenly brought my 75-200mm lens to a wide-angle composition setting!  With every inch of the back of my torso pressed against the granite wall behind me, I squeezed this composition out.  What I found after arriving home and editing images is that I really liked this version!  You don't see such a tight crop very often.  See, accidents can work!

"Split Rock", near the official one!

The Split Rock loop trail is a fun hike.  Being in Jumbo Rocks, it can be hiked from the campground but it is quicker to drive and park at the trailhead if you looking to photograph the rock(s).  Why is that?  Because the official Split Rock is at the trailhead parking lot!  However, just a short distance down the trail you come across this one, and a little further another!

The official Split Rock is popular amongst visitors and includes picnic table around and under it (opposite the parking lot).  While quite interesting, I found this one to be more photogenic.

We did this hike mid-day, and I realized I wanted to return for evening photography, primarily for this composition.  I played with different compositions for this one, and began shooting much earlier when much of the rock in the forefront was lit up by evening light as well.  I like many of the versions, but I think I prefer this one.

This hike can very easily be combined with the Discovery Trail from Skull Rock and the trail to Face Rock.

Hall of Horrors

We enjoyed many other hikes in the park during our stay as well. The official Hall of Horrors was a favorite.  It is not signed.  It must be navigated to, and while not difficult to find, and can take some snooping to find the entrance.  Lines of people would be problematic for this slot, so I'm sure the park wants it to stay this way.

Barker's Dam was a lot of fun.  The dam was dry during our visit, but still worth seeing the history.  And the petroglyphs!  I would recommend going early, not only for the best light on Barker Dam, but to beat the crowds.

The climbing area in Hidden Valley is a fun place to hang out, whether you just want to enjoy watching the climbers up high on the faces or photograph them.

One of our absolute favorite hikes we did our last day in the park was Ryan Mountain.  Do not miss this!  Go early to avoid the heat.  The hike is pleasant and the views at the top encompass most of the park!  My favorite view was looking toward Hidden Valley and the arial view you have of the Wonderland Rocks - the formations running north/south between Barker Dam and Indian Cove.  You would never imagine their size from the ground!

Other hikes we did that we were less impressed with were Ryan Ranch and Wall Street.  Locations?  Pioneertown.  Nothing but a tourist trap with very little to do, in our opinion.

You are probably wondering why Keys View is not represented here.  We visited it MANY times!  It's one of two places we found (near the intersection with Pinto Basin Road the other) that you can get signal!  We found during our visit that the air quality was very poor and we always had a clear and boring sky.  It just didn't work during this visit.  Maybe next time!

Morning light in Jumbo Rocks.

Photography tips?  Bring as much as you can pack.  I brought everything, including my night equipment for astro photography (but was always too tired stay up that late!).  I used all my different size lenses. 

Evening light is much softer than morning light in most all cases. Compare the picture to the right with the similar composition above and you will see what I am talking about.

Oh, and don't lose pieces to your tripod on the trail!

As always, thanks for looking.  I hope some of this information help you in your planning.  Joshua Tree NP is a great place to visit and I am looking forward to returning.

You can view more of these images in my Joshua Tree Gallery if you are interested.

You can the rest of my galleries at Mountain Scenes Photography.

See you on the trail!

A Special Moment at Mount Rainier NP

A lenticular cloud over Mount Rainier.

Many influences come into play when photographing outdoors.  Many of them, such as choosing location, camera settings, lens and filter selection, and composition, we control.  But there are natural elements that we do not.  Oh, we plan ahead and do our research so as to put ourselves in the best possible position to be successful, but we don't control it.  For me, this is one of the most exciting elements of photography.

I knew the forecast called for a change in weather towards afternoon on this day, but noticed as I neared the Nisqually Entrance that the stars were blurred.  This told me there was moisture in the air.  I knew this could mean low elevation fog, which got me even more excited!

As I drove up the Paradise Road, I noticed a definite cloud bank to the west and no stars.  As I neared the Paradise parking lot, it became clear that a system was moving in quicker than I had expected.  Yet, to the east it remained mostly clear, but with some interesting whispy clouds.  Of course, east is what is important for sunrise photography!

Clouds began to form directly over the summit of Rainier and grew in size as they moved west to east.  Soon they turned a brilliant pink and it was game on!  As we watched the intensity grow above the mountain, we noticed signs of a lenticular cloud forming above the mountain.  It grew to prominent status rather quickly, just in time for the first rays of the sun.  We had found paradise! (pun intentional).

As climbers and many others know, lenticular clouds are strong indicators of a couple of things:  They are a sign of heavy winds on the summit (often exceeding 100 mph), and a sign of a pending weather system arriving in the next 24 hours.  This meant there were plenty of unknowns ahead of us as the mystery unfolded on this morning.

The lenticular cloud became more and more defined, and the unique light seemed to last an exaggerated length of timeAlas, all good things must come to and end and this experience was no different.  As the sun rose higher in the sky the light became much less dramatic, then disappeared entirely as clouds began to consume the skies above and the wind picked up. - minutes, not seconds.

I am proud to share that this image was recently licensed to a travel media publisher of books and magazines for worldwide use.

You can see more of my images from this area in my Mount Rainier Gallery.

As always, thanks for looking!

Mount St. Helens and Lupine Fields

Mount St. Helens above lupine meadows.

 Mount St. Helens is a great destination for flowers in season.  In fact, its season runs much earlier than, say, Mount Rainier. If this is what you are looking for, early to mid-July is the time to visit.  Basically, you have three choices:

• The south side up FS 81 out of Cougar, WA.
• Johnston Ridge at the end of SR 504 (from I-5).
• Windy Ridge from FS25 & 99 out of Randle.

The south side of the mountain is the "non-eruption" view.  For most, it's the climbing side to the summit.  The views are of the "flat" summit (no crater).

Johnston Ridge is the most popular as it is a paved highway all the way to road's end at the Johnston Ridge Observatory.  It includes paved walkways and an amphitheater for easy viewing of the destruction side of the mountain, with flower meadows at your feet in season.  It, of course, also has the visitor center (with another one along the way at Coldwater). (Note as of this writing, 504 is closed just beyond the Coldwater Visitor Center due to road washout.)

Windy Ridge, while still fairly popular, involves a little more travel.  It's approached by heading south from Randle, WA. and following the signs for Windy Ridge.  The Windy Ridge area, while still accommodating for the casual visitor, is more of a hiking destination.  There is no visitor center, and the best floral views involve exploring the trails in the area.  Norway Pass and Independence Ridge are popular trails offering flower meadows and can be made into a loop trip with a second vehicle.  Of course, Norway Pass offers the spectacular view of the mountain over Spirit Lake!

The image above was taken along the Loowit Trail, approached via the Truman Trail from the Windy Ridge Viewpoint.  The fields of lupine were magnificent during this visit, and their perfume the strongest I have ever witnessed.  I made a loop trip for this visit, first visiting the Plains of Abraham, then descending the Windy Trail down into the meadows along the Loowit Trail before climbing the Windy Trail back up to the Truman Trail and returning to Windy Ridge.

This image was recently licensed for worldwide web usage by a prominent marketing company.  You can see many more images like this in my Mount St. Helens Gallery if you wish.

As always, thanks for looking!  Hope to see you on the trail!

Enchanted Valley, Olympic National Park

The Quinault River from Pony Bridge.

As you might know, Enchanted Valley is one of the most popular destinations in Olympic National Park, which I’ve always found interesting.  Not because it isn’t a worthwhile trip, but why it is.  I don’t find it overly scenic quite honestly (except Pony Bridge early on the trek), especially late in season.  The valley is wide and vegetation is predominantly grass and brush due to its low elevation, affording early season access (even year-around some years).  If you like sub-alpine meadows, you won’t find them here (but you will further up the valley in the summer months). Of course, it also offers the wild Quinault River, which changes its course often and has forced the relocation of the chalet.   In early season there are waterfalls cascading down the face of Chimney Rock and the Burke Range high above.  They’re nice.  They certainly bring character and enjoyment to the valley in early season. However, I never found them very photogenic as a stand-alone subject, even under desirable conditions (cloudy and overcast).  In my opinion, they make a great backdrop to accompany other subject matter to help tell the story (example below).

What the area does offer (not solitude), is wildlife!  Elk, bears, deer and more are extremely common in this area and often make themselves available, especially in the morning and evening.  For me, this is the highlight!

Black bear, Enchanted Valley.

I first discovered this area in the mid-1990’s.  I visited in mid-May, making sure to beat any Memorial Weekend crowds.  Backcountry permits were self-issued at the Quinault Ranger station – no line.  I shared the valley with one other person.  In two subsequent visits shortly thereafter, I had it all to myself.  I doubt you will ever experience such solitude today.  Now permits must be reserved in advance and there is a quota which is often met.

The fond memories I have of that first visit was sitting around camp and being surprised to see not one, not two, but three separate bears appear across the meadows from me, grazing.  I was nervous at first and wondered if I would have to protect my tent and belongings (my food was hung), but soon realized they didn’t care about my presence at all.  I had never experienced such a thing.

Roosevelt Elk, Enchanted Valley.

I stayed a couple of days exploring the area, but mostly just watched the bears.

Then the day of departure arrived, and it was time to pack up and move out.  I was sad to leave, but didn’t realize the biggest moment of my trip awaited me.  As I wandered carefree down the trail past Pyrites Creek lost in my thoughts, I came around a bend to find a sight I never would have imagined – a bear a short distance off the trail sleeping on its back with all four feet in the air!  I parked myself a safe distance away and watched it sleep and even listened to it snore a couple of times!  It eventually opened an eye, saw me, and went back to sleep!  After a while it began getting restless and started rolling on either side, whichever was more comfortable.  The nap became short and soon it decided it was time to wander up the trail in the direction I had come, seemingly still somewhat groggy.  I could not believe what I had just experienced!  This experience reaffirmed that I would be back!

Camp below the waterfalls of Enchanted
Valley.

Of course, that experience never repeated itself.

Fast forward to 2023, when I returned once again in hopes of seeing my “friends”.  How different things were.  As mentioned above, permits can be much more challenging to come by, and the crowds were ever-present from beginning to end.  There was no solitude.  Fortunately, however, my “friends” were indeed there, seemingly waiting for me (hey, I can dream!).

So, for logistic planning, here is my take and input on this trip:

It’s a long trek – 13.3 miles to Enchanted Valley.  It’s very pleasant hike to take your mind off the work, but typical of Olympic National Park trails, much up and down.  Many people consider breaking the approach up into two days.

After crossing Graves Creek near the trailhead, the trail follows an abandoned road for 2.4 miles, climbing over a ridge and then descending steeply down to the crossing of the East Fork Quinault and Pony Bridge.  It’s a high bridge with the river far below as its plunging waters negotiate a deep gorge.  This is one of the most spectacular places along this entire trail in my opinion, and you will want to spend some time to enjoy!  There is a camp on the far side that I’ve always thought would be fun to enjoy.

A sleeping black bear near the trail at Pyrites Creek.

From here the way continues mostly in forest, with many creek crossings and ups and downs as it traverses terraces and moraine.  There are a few trail washouts that must be negotiated.  Nothing too difficult though.  I call them speed bumps in the trip!

There are camps all along the trail as you head up the valley – typical of the Olympics.  Many you won’t find on a map.

Black bear in Enchanted Valley

Pyrites Creek is reached at about 10 miles and is a nice place to stay.  Others obviously think so too!  It too has high wildlife traffic and is within a short distance of visiting Enchanted Valley on a leisurely visit, 3.5 miles further.

After crossing through a gate (yes, a gate), you are close to the bridge crossing of the river and your arrival to Enchanted Valley.  In case you are reading older guide books, the suspension bridge is long gone, having been washed out.  The current bridge requires a bit of attention as it is simply a log that has been flattened on the top for walking and has a single upstream handrail, high above the raging Quinault River.  You would not want to fall here.  After a long day of backpacking and tired legs, this definitely gets your attention!

Black bear in Enchanted Valley

Photography Tips

Overcast days and even fog are the best days to visit this area for photography.  I find myself using my 70-200mm lens the most by far here, often coupled with 2x teleconverter for the wildlife.  A 24-70mm lens is worth carrying if you plan to shoot landscapes.  You might want to decide if the weight of a wide-angle is worth carrying on this long of a trek.  I would probably leave it at home if you are not toting an RF lens.

Enchanted Valley Chalet, circa ~2002.

Enchanted Valley is deep, so the harsh light comes quickly in the morning and lasts all the way to sunset.  There is not much, if any transition.  This is not a location most people will be banking on “golden hour” photography.

The season depends on your itinerary.  Spring is great for wildlife as the snow up higher keeps them in the valley.  Once the snow melts above, the animals see it as an invite to seek higher ground.  It’s also the best time to enjoy the waterfalls, which all but dry up later in the year.  If you wish to continue, the Anderson Pass area and LaCrosse Basin are fabulous places to visit beginning in mid-July most years.

Black bear in Enchanted Valley

I hope you have found some of this information helpful in planning your own trip.  The adventure can be as long as you want it to be!  I would definitely budget no less than 3-4 days for it - more if you intend to extend the trip further towards LaCrosse Basin or Anderson Pass.

If you wish to seem more images from this wonderful park, please visit my Olympic Gallery.

As always, thanks for looking.  Hope to see you on the trail!

Almost Daffodil Season!

That's right.  It's almost daffodil season here in the Pacific Northwest!  The season typically begins in early March in the Skagit Valley, painting the fields in a wide variety of colors, but predominantly yellow.  They are the precursor to the tulips, which will begin to arrive in early April.

But back to the daffodils.  They don't receive nearly the crowds that the tulips generate.  I think there are several reasons behind this.  The tulips are the more famous flower and have a festival built around them.  They are the highlight of the Roozengaarde gardens, with so many different varieties and colors.  The daffodils appear in them too, as seen in this photo.  However, they mostly seem to play a complimentary roll.

March can also be a challenging time to visit due to weather.  The fields can be wet and muddy, and snow is still a real possibility.  The temperatures can be cold.  Still, there are often nice weather windows to jump at the opportunity for a visit.  To visit the fields is free and Roozengaarde offers a map on their website which shows the locations (the fields vary year-to-year, as they don't plant consecutive years), and the current bloom situation.

The image above is from their garden, which requires an admission fee (well worth it).  I'm proud to share that it currently appears on a UK 2025 wall calendar.

You may view this and many other daffodil images in my Daffodils - Skagit Vallery Gallery.

As always, thanks for looking!  Maybe I'll see you there!