Photographing the Tonquin Valley

The Ramparts reflected in Amethyst Lake at dawn.

The Tonquin Valley is considered the jewel of Jasper National Park by many.  Located deep in the heart of the Canadian Rockies, the valley is famous for its dramatic scene of The Ramparts towering high above Amethyst Lakes, and casting their beautiful reflection into the lake’s calm waters at sunrise.  It is truly a sight to behold.

Of course, I must qualify the above description as being season dependent.  The Tonquin Valley is best visited in late season.  By late August, the bugs are gone and most of the “swampy” areas have dried up.  Visit in July and you will be swarmed by mosquitoes and horse flies beyond belief, likely requiring a head net and full clothing as you negotiate through bug hell.  Amethysts lakes can be difficult to approach in early season due to wetlands.  Trails can also be extremely muddy.

The Ramparts reflected in Amethyst Lake at sun

The valley is known for its abundance of wildlife, including caribou, cougars, wolves and grizzly bears.  During my visit, caribou were not present, while a new pack of wolves was.  It was widely believed that the wolves had migrated over from another valley, chasing the caribou away.  Fatal grizzly bear attacks have occurred in the Tonquin Valley in recent years.  While most hikers will not see a bear during their visit (I didn’t), it is very important to be prepared and aware while on the trail.

There are two approaches to the Tonquin Valley – the Astoria River trail and McCarib Pass trail.  Both are long.  While the Portal Creek Trail is longer (14.2 miles) and gains about 1,000’ more elevation as it climbs over McCarib Pass, it is much more scenic.  McCarib Pass is high, open country with views in all directions.  It should not be missed, even if it means a day hike from the lake to experience.  The Astoria River Trail is shorter (12.7 miles) and the quickest way into Amethyst Lakes.  I can’t compare the two trails because at the time of my visit, a massive slide off Mount Edith Cavell had closed the road to the trailhead, as well as the trail itself.

There are two prime campgrounds in the valley, Surprise Point Campground and Amethyst Campground.  Both are very scenic and offer excellent views of The Ramparts above Amethyst Lakes.  Amethyst Campground is more popular, and in my opinion, offering the better view and composition.  Nonetheless, I have seen beautiful images from Surprise Point as well.  Maybe you will need to visit both!

The Ramparts reflected in Amethyst Lake.

Morning is the time to photograph The Ramparts and their reflection in the lake.  Sunrise turns the rock bright pink, then gold as the morning progresses.  As long as the weather is stable, the water will be calm for the first few hours of the morning.

Getting to the lake from the Amethyst Campground can be tricky, outside the obvious trail from the campground.  This is because the rolling meadows are comprised mostly of wetlands.  For the most interesting foreground, I recommend hiking the main trail south for about ¼ mile, then aiming for the obvious rocks along the lakeshore.  This is a prime sunrise location to shoot from.

The Ramparts reflected in a tarn in Tonquin Valley.

By mid-morning the sunlight will begin to hit the meadows of the valley.  I recommend following the obvious trail from the campground to the lake as it passes several interesting rocks and tarns.

If staying at Sunrise Point, the area near the bridge entering the campground offers excellent foreground as rocks abound along the shore and in the shallow water.

The Tonquin Valley is best suited for wide-angle lenses.  My 17-40mm was my most used lens, with my 24-70mm coming in second.  I also hauled in my 70—200mm for wildlife, hoping to catch a grizzly bear or caribou.  My only grizzly encounter was at the trailhead parking lot the night before while I was sleeping.  As mentioned above, with the new presence of a wolf pack in the valley, the caribou are believed to have mostly left.  I probably would leave the large glass at home next time in consideration of the weight.

The Ramparts above Tonquin Valley.

You will want both a 2-stop and 3-stop GND filter.  I would also recommend a polarizer.  If you are into star photography, the Tonquin Valley is an excellent place for star shots as well as the Aurora Borealis (Northern Lights).  You might even have a wolf follow you back to your tent as I did!

If you are determined to carry heavy camera gear for your visit, there are pack guide services available that will haul your equipment for you for a fee.

I highly recommend spending a few days in the valley, with a full day on both sides for hiking in and hiking out.  Every morning offered different lighting and was a unique experience for me.  This also gives you time to further explore the area.
Enjoy your visit to this fantastic slice of heaven.  Life slows down here.  It’s okay to slow down with it.

To view more images of the area, visit my Canadian Rockies Gallery.

As always thanks for reading!

Photographing the Enchantment Lakes

Prusik above frozen Gnome Tarn.

The Enchantment Lakes are one of the most beautiful destinations our state of Washington has to offer.  The high alpine lakes are set in granite basins surrounded by larches that turn brilliant gold in fall, and towering peaks above. They attract photographers, hikers and climbers from around the country.

You must have a permit to visit this fantastic place, which encourages one to plan in advance.  Of course, if you're feeling lucky, you can roll the dice the morning of by playing their lottery system.  Don't get caught without a permit; the rangers patrol the area and strictly enforce the permit policy.

Once the legal obstacles are handled, one must face the physical challenge of the approach, and decide which approach is best for them.

The Snow Lake approach gains 5,700' in ~9.5 miles.  Aasgard Pass, a favorite among many, has 1,000' less elevation gain and shorter distance, but uses a climber's path to ascend over a nearly 8,000' pass before descending to the lakes.  Neither approach can be classified as easy.

The Enchantment Lakes are best visited from late July through mid-October.  Late July-early August will often find the area mostly snow-covered, though peaks are very accessible.  Late August and September are the best hiking months; the area is mostly melted out and the weather generally continues to be nice.  This is a great time to explore and scramble in the upper basin.  October offers the turning of the larches, as well as the seasons.  It's common  to have a dusting of snow on the ground, making off-trail travel in the upper basin tricky.  Though photographic throughout the summer, October offers a photographer's paradise when the larches can be timed right.  Unfortunately, the weather can be unpredictable and present challenges.  One must be prepared for winter conditions, or to even cancel their trip altogether.


Larches above Sprite Lake.

 My first October visit to the Enchantment Lakes several years ago hit the larches at their absolute peak, and had fantastic weather from beginning to end.  I thought this was the norm.  My second visit found poor conditions with snow and heavy clouds.  I had to cancel my third visit entirely due to a prior system that dumped heavy snow in the area, and was forecast to last the duration of my visit.  I've learned to never take the Enchantments Lakes for granted again!

This year we once again had a system move in ahead of our visit, bringing temperatures in the 20's, and snow.  Nine inches of fresh snow were reported at Lake Vivian the day of our entry.  As such, we elected to to approach via Snow Lakes.  This would offer us a seemingly easier approach under the conditions, as well as an easier bail route should we need to beat a hasty retreat.


Camp near Sprite Lake.

We hiked in under sunny skies, knowing the forecast was for a short window of nice weather before a new system was to threaten our final day.

We arrived at Lake Vivian to find the few backpackers there had been tent-bound the previous day during a blizzard.  Reports were that nobody was camped higher.

We continued on to Sprite Lake, arriving after 9 hours of hiking and 5,700' above our starting point.  The snow awaited us as promised.

Prusik Peak Reflection near Leprechaun Lake.

October Photography

Photography options abound throughout the Enchantment Lakes.  But if looking for larches in October, the best option is the lower lakes; Lake Vivian, Leprechaun Lake, Sprite Lake, Perfection Lake, Inspiration Lake and Gnome Tarn provide excellent showings of larch.  Larch can be found higher, but their numbers are greatly reduced.  A central camp to easily access all these areas is recommended.

My Recommendations:



Prusik Peak above frozen Gnome Tarn.

Lake Vivian:  I have not photographed Lake Vivian, though having passed by it many times, I believe it to be very photogenic.  It offers a lake set in granite amidst larches, and a unique perspective of Prusik Peak above.  I'm not sure Prusik is very photogenic from this side, however.  I would probably tend to focus on the lake itself.  I hope to spend time photographing near its outlet stream, as well as up high from an obvious overlook along the trail.  I've always found myself passing through this area during the middle of the day, and camped too far away for a comfortable visit.

Leprechaun Lake:  I've always liked Leprechaun Lake.  It is lined with larches and offers excellent views of Prusik Peak and The Temple.  It's a large lake and subject to windy conditions.  I would suggest the chances of catching a reflection as slim to none.  However, don't despair!  Locate the trail that explores the peninsula of the lake.  At the very end are some tarns, one of which catches a beautiful reflection of the peaks above in late afternoon/evening, which is when the best light arrives.

There are many other excellent compositions to be had around this lake.  Be sure and check out the south shore.  A fun exploration to get there can begin from Sprite Lake.  More on that later.  There are also some beautiful tarns between Leprechaun Lake and the climb to Sprite Lake, and an interesting stream.

Upper Basin from Gnome Tarn.

 Sprite Lake:  Sprite Lake is a small gem of a lake encircled by larches, just shy of Perfection Lake.  It's quite pretty and often photographed.  If offers a small waterfall at its inlet from Perfection Lake, sandwiched between larches. Its outlet stream lines up to perfectly frame Prusik Peak.  There is excellent photography to be had from each and every side of this heavenly lake, which can hold an early morning reflection.  From this location, don't miss first light on the buttress above Perfection Lake to the west - it can turn a brilliant red in the right conditions, and reflects nicely if the water cooperates.

Wandering east off-trail from the lake, several tarns can be found, and much exploration around them.  I've spent an entire day playing in this area, and using it as a shortcut to access the south shore of Leprechaun Lake below by traversing around a knoll.

Prusik Peak above frozen Gnome Tarn.

Sprite Lake is also the popular jumping off point to visit Crystal Lake.  There is no camping at Crystal Lake, but it is a beautiful lake in a granite cirque with lots of interesting rock features and some larch - well worth visiting.

 Perfection Lake:  Perfection Lake is a very large lake with a prominent buttress to the west, and larches all around.  The basin at its head offers excellent groves of larch, and also serves as the junction with the Prusik Pass trail, which gives access to Gnome Tarn.  Campsites with incredible views can be found along this lake.  Goats are common residents here, as they are above.

Prusik Peak above larches and Perfection Lake.

There are many excellent vantages immediately around this lake for photographing, the best at or near the lake's head in my opinion.  For higher and much more encompassing views, follow the Prusik Pass trail up to Gnome Tarn, then gain the ridge above for unobstructed views back down to the lake, as well as Inspiration Lake and into the upper basin.

Other high views can be found by following the trail up to Inspiration Lake and locating the side-path near its outlet stream at the far end (before the steep climb).  For even higher views, continue with the steep climb up beside the waterfall.  At the top, take the side path east to the top of the prominent buttress seen below from  Perfection Lake.  The views are superb!

Photographer and upper basin of Enchantment Lakes.

Inspiration Lake:  Inspiration Lake is set in a deep cirque.  It's very scenic with larches lining its shoreline.  Isolation shots work well here.  Also, larches can be reflected in the lake.  Views from above the inlet waterfall are also very nice, allowing the inclusion of Prusik Pass and even Prusik Peak (though the later requires some work to successfully compose).

If you are staying at Inspiration Lake, make sure to follow the outlet stream to views of Perfection mentioned above.

Prusik Peak above Gnome Tarn.

Gnome Tarn:  Gnome Tarn offers the iconic image of Prusik Peak from the Enchantments.

For the easiest access to this lake, go to the junction at the head of Perfection Lake and take the Prusik Pass trail.

Many compositions can be had around this small tarn.  It holds a reflection of Prusik Peak well.  Add larches in season and the scene becomes...well, enchanting!

This scene is best photographed shortly after sunrise, once light has had a chance to light the rock of Prusik and the larches below.  If you arrive at or before sunrise, continue up to the ridge top to get above the larches to the south, and catch first light on the peaks of the upper basin - breathtaking!

Photographer in the Upper Enchantments.

The Enchantment Lakes are an incredible place to visit and photograph.  I would recommend budgeting at least five days for your visit, giving you an approach day, three full days to enjoy, and an exit day.  More days would be even better.

Having painted this area in such glorious light, I must also take time to stress some safety considerations.

Understand the physical challenge required to get into the Enchantments and make sure it is within your ability.  Both routes are physically demanding. 

Choose your gear carefully and be conservative.  Ounces add up quickly.  I recommend a wide-angle and medium range zoom lens, along with polarizers and GND filters for your camera gear.

Be prepared for the weather and elements.  The Enchantments can offer winter conditions at any time of year, and do.  October can be particularly cold.  During my visit, a group of photographers coming over Aasgard Pass in a blizzard learned this the hard way.  It ruined their trip.  Meanwhile, we found ourselves wearing all of our layers, all of the time!

I hope to have some of these images from my latest trip available on my web site soon.  In the meantime, feel free to check out images from previous Enchantment trips, or peruse other galleries of my web site.

If you have any questions, feel free to drop me a line.

As always, thanks for visiting!

Photographing Yellowstone National Park

Canary Spring

Yellowstone National Park is an amazing place for photography.  There is so much variety available that something is bound to capture the interest of most shutterbugs.  The park has very distinct features, offering geysers, hot springs, waterfalls, terraces and mud pots.  Each of these features require a slightly different approach with the camera.

Castle Geyser and rainbow.

One thing to keep in mind as you visit the hot pools and geysers of the park is that hot water in cold air creates steam.  For this reason early morning isn't the best time to photograph the pools or geysers.  Steam can make the terraces at Mammoth Hot Springs quite interesting, however (still, you may wish to return later in the morning once the sun has warmed things up).

Morning is a great time to photograph wildlife throughout the park, reflections in the Firehole River and around Fountain Flat, and of course both Upper Falls and Lower Falls of the Yellowstone River.

Lower Falls and rainbow.

Rainbows can be a regular occurance at both Lower Falls and Upper Falls during morning hours.  Timing depends on weather (clear skies) and season.  Plan on between 8:30 am and 10:30 am.  Vantages that should be on your radar include Lookout Point, Red Rock Point, Upper Falls Viewpoint and Artist Point.  These are all spectacular!

To my disappointment, Tower Falls was not available during my visit.  Nor was Gibbons Falls - both due to construction.

Rustic Falls, north of Mammoth Hot Springs, is quite nice.  But it is north facing so the sun never hits all of it.  It is best photographed on a cloudy day for even light.

Another waterfall worth checking out is Undine Falls, in the north section of the park.  This might be a better autumn picture.

Crested Pool

Mid to late morning and late afternoon and evening is the best time to photograph the geyser basins.  Light is kind to you and the temperatures are warm enough that steam will not hinder your photos.  The colors surrounding the pools change with the light.  My personal favorites were Grand Prismatic Spring, Crested Pool, Chromatic Spring and Emerald Pool.

Sunny days are best for geysers.  Mostly blue skies allow for contrast and definition of the eruption.  Overcast days cause the plumes of water to blend against the cloudy sky and detail is lost.


Old Faithful

 Angle is another important element, and the one that I believe most people underestimate.  When shooting the geysers, take into consideration the direction of the wind and location of the sun. 
Obviously, you don't want to be shooting in the direction of the sun.  Likewise, you don't want to be down wind of the erupting geyser!  Understanding the direction the geyser will erupt will allow you to plan your composition, rather than be reacting to the elements. 

Know the estimated schedule for each geyser's eruption ahead of time.  This will put you in the best possible position to succeed.  Schedules are available as handouts at the visitor center, posted at most of the geysers, and available on the park's web site.

One last word on the geysers is to study interesting forefronts that will add uniqueness to your composition and make your image stand out.

White Dome Geyser at sunset

Sunset can also be a fun time to shoot the geysers.  Again, knowing their schedule is important.  Here, White Dome Geyser was scheduled to erupt shortly before sunset.  However, it was an hour late and its eruption timed perfectly with the evening light, allowing the setting sun to turn its plume pink!

I hope you have enjoyed these basic hints for photographing Yellowstone National Park.  Feel free to contact me with your questions if planning a visit of your own.  I am always happy to help!

Many more images are available for viewing in my Yellowstone gallery.